Quick answer: on our 3/8" steel, shoot rimfire from at least 10 yards, non-magnum pistols (9mm, .40, .45 ACP) from 10–15 yards, magnum handguns from 25 yards, and centerfire rifles from at least 100 yards. If your load leaves the muzzle over 3,000 fps — many 55-grain .223/5.56 loads like M193 do — use 200 yards. Very fast varmint rounds (.204 Ruger, .220 Swift, .22-250) need more: back up until the bullet hits under 3,000 fps. The exact number depends on the target, the steel and the load, so always check the rating on your specific target first.
Shooting steel too close is the #1 way people ruin targets and get hurt. Here's how to pick the right distance for every gun you own.
Steel target distances at a glance
| What you're shooting | Minimum distance (3/8" STUSA steel) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| .22 LR rimfire | 10 yards | Great for 1/4" steel and our rimfire spinners |
| 9mm, .40 S&W, .45 ACP | 10–15 yards | Lead or jacketed ammo only; fine on 1/4" or 3/8" steel |
| Magnum handguns (.357 Mag, .44 Mag) | 25 yards | 3/8" steel only, never 1/4" |
| .308, .30-06 and other rifle loads under 3,000 fps at the muzzle | 100 yards | Keep impact velocity under 3,000 fps |
| Rifle loads over 3,000 fps at the muzzle (including many 55-grain .223/5.56 loads like M193) | 200 yards | Distance lets the bullet slow down before impact |
| Very fast varmint rounds (.204 Ruger, .220 Swift, .22-250) | More than 200 yards | Back up until the bullet hits under 3,000 fps |
| Magnum rifles (.300 Win Mag, .338 Lapua, .50 BMG) | Not recommended | Can warp or crater 3/8" plate |
| Steel-core, AP, "green tip," tracer, incendiary, steel shot | Never | Damages steel, creates a ricochet hazard, and tracer and incendiary rounds can start fires |
Why velocity matters more than caliber
It's natural to think a bigger bullet is harder on steel. Usually it's the other way around. A heavy, slow .45 ACP slug flattens and splashes off a plate. A small .223 bullet moving at 3,000+ fps hits a tiny spot with enormous heat and pressure, and that's what dents, pits and craters steel.
That's why rifles need so much more distance than pistols. The extra yards let the bullet slow down before it reaches the plate. It's also why a fast load, like a short, light bullet out of a long barrel, may need 200 yards even when a standard load is fine at 100, and why the fastest varmint rounds need even more.
Why shooting too close is dangerous
When a bullet hits hardened steel, it breaks apart and the fragments (called spall) spray outward along the face of the plate. At a safe distance, those fragments lose energy and fall well short of the shooter. Too close, and they can come straight back at you.
Shooting too close also damages the target. A pitted or cratered face doesn't deflect fragments predictably anymore, which makes the target less safe every time you shoot it.
How to set up steel for safe shooting
- Angle it down. Hang or tilt targets so the face points slightly toward the ground. Fragments then go into the dirt, not back uprange. Hanging targets from target hangers or a T-post hanger lets them swing, which also absorbs energy.
- Use a backstop. A dirt berm or hillside behind the target catches misses and fragments.
- Keep it clear. Don't place targets in front of rocks, concrete or other hard surfaces that can bounce bullets.
- Wear protection. Eye and ear protection for everyone on the line, every time.
- Inspect before you shoot. Retire any plate that's pitted, cratered, bent or cracked. If the same plate sees both rifle and pistol, inspect it closely after rifle use before shooting pistol at 10–15 yards. Rifle pitting is dangerous at handgun distances.
For more, see our full safety information.
Common mistakes
- Using one distance for every gun. Your 9mm and your AR need completely different setups.
- Thinking thicker steel means you can shoot closer. Thickness helps the plate survive. It doesn't change how fragments fly.
- Ignoring muzzle velocity. Check your load's speed, especially with light, fast rifle bullets.
- Shooting "just one" steel-core round. One penetrator round can punch or crater a plate for good.
- Shooting a damaged target. Once a face is cratered, it's done.
What to buy for each distance
For a 10–25 yard pistol bay, reactive targets make practice fun and fast: the Dueling Tree, Texas Star, Elite Series Popper and Centerfire Reset Pack.
For .22 at 10+ yards, try the Rimfire Reset Pack or the 1/4" AR500 Gong Set.
For 100+ yard rifle lanes, 3/8" AR500 gongs are the workhorse. The Gong Starter Kit (8", 10" and 12") gives you a target for every distance, and the Big Gong Set (12" and 16") is easy to see at long range.
Not sure which steel to choose? Read AR500 vs SR500 steel targets.
FAQ
How close can you shoot steel targets with a pistol?
On our 3/8" steel, 10–15 yards for 9mm, .40 and .45 ACP with standard lead or jacketed ammo. Magnum handguns like the .357 and .44 Mag need 25 yards, on 3/8" steel only. Anything closer, use paper or cardboard.
How far away should you shoot 5.56 at steel?
On 3/8" rifle-rated steel, at least 100 yards if your load is under 3,000 fps at the muzzle. Many 55-grain loads like M193 leave the muzzle over 3,000 fps, so use 200 yards for those.
Can I shoot .22 at steel?
Yes, from 10 yards or more. Lighter steel and rimfire spinners react better to the little .22.
Can I shoot FMJ at steel targets?
Yes. Standard lead and copper-jacketed FMJ are fine. What you must avoid is steel-core, armor-piercing, "green tip," tracer and incendiary ammo.
Does a thicker target let me shoot closer?
No. Follow the minimum distance for your target no matter how thick it is.
Questions about your setup? Contact us and we'll help you pick the right targets and distances for your range.