Quick answer: for .223 and 5.56, use 3/8" rifle-rated steel, never 1/4". Shoot it from at least 100 yards only if your load leaves the muzzle under 3,000 fps. If your load leaves the muzzle over 3,000 fps — many 55-grain .223/5.56 loads like M193 do — use 200 yards. Very fast varmint rounds (.204 Ruger, .220 Swift, .22-250) need more: back up until the bullet hits under 3,000 fps. Check the box. And never put green tip, steel-core, armor-piercing, tracer or incendiary ammo on any steel.
The AR-15 is one of the most common rifles on any steel range. It's light-recoiling, cheap to feed and a ton of fun on gongs. But the little .223 bullet is fast, and speed is what wears out steel. Here's how to choose targets that stand up to it and set them up the right way.
.223 and 5.56 on steel at a glance
| Ammo | Typical muzzle velocity | Minimum distance on 3/8" STUSA steel |
|---|---|---|
| 55-grain FMJ (M193-style) | Often over 3,000 fps (roughly 3,000–3,165 fps depending on barrel) | 200 yards |
| Any .223/5.56 load rated under 3,000 fps from your barrel | Under 3,000 fps | 100 yards |
| M855 / "green tip" (62-grain with steel penetrator) | Doesn't matter | Never on steel |
| Very fast varmint rounds (.204 Ruger, .220 Swift, .22-250) | Often 3,600 fps and up | More than 200 yards: back up until the bullet hits under 3,000 fps |
| Steel-core or armor-piercing | Doesn't matter | Never on steel |
| Tracer or incendiary | Doesn't matter | Never on steel |
| Any rifle round on 1/4" steel | Doesn't matter | Not recommended; use 3/8" |
Velocities vary by brand, bullet and barrel length, so always go by the number on your box and your own rifle.
Why the .223 is harder on steel than it looks
It's easy to assume a small bullet is easy on targets. The opposite is often true. Damage to hardened steel comes from velocity more than bullet weight. A light .223 bullet moving over 3,000 feet per second puts intense pressure on a very small area, and that's what dimples, pits and eventually craters a plate.
That's why our rule for 3/8" steel is built around impact velocity, not caliber. If your load leaves the muzzle under 3,000 fps, 100 yards is the minimum. If your load leaves the muzzle over 3,000 fps — many 55-grain .223/5.56 loads like M193 do — use 200 yards. Very fast varmint rounds (.204 Ruger, .220 Swift, .22-250) need more: back up until the bullet hits under 3,000 fps. The extra distance gives the bullet room to slow down before it gets there.
Barrel length matters too. Box velocities for .223 are often measured from a 24" test barrel, longer than most AR barrels, so a 16" carbine will usually run slower than the box number and even a 20" rifle may run a bit slower. For example, a common 55-grain M193-type load is listed at about 3,165 fps, and shooters often chronograph it somewhere around 3,000–3,100 fps from a 16". Either way, that's over 3,000, so plan for 200 yards.
Why 3/8" and not 1/4"
1/4" plate is great for non-magnum handguns and .22 LR, but we don't recommend it for centerfire rifle. A 5.56 at rifle speed can dent, bend or crater thin plate quickly. 3/8" is our all-around thickness for pistol and most centerfire rifle at the proper distance.
Remember that thickness helps the plate survive. It doesn't let you shoot closer. Follow the distance rule no matter how thick the steel is.
Know your ammo before you shoot
Green tip is the big one with 5.56. M855 and similar loads have a steel penetrator in the nose, and penetrators are exactly what punches holes and craters in target steel. It's also a ricochet hazard. The same goes for anything labeled steel-core or armor-piercing, and for tracer and incendiary rounds, which can also start fires.
A simple habit: touch a magnet to the bullet itself, not the case. If it sticks to the bullet, keep that round off your steel. Plain lead-core, copper-jacketed FMJ is what you want.
Choosing targets for your AR
- Gongs. 3/8" AR500 round gongs are the workhorse of any rifle line. At 100–200 yards, a 10"–12" gong is a comfortable starting plate and a 6"–8" gong is a real test from field positions.
- Torsos. A rifle-rated torso lets you practice realistic shot placement. The USPSA/IPSC C-Zone is 12" x 20", and the full D-Zone torso is 18" x 30".
- Spinners. The Rifle Spinner is a 7" SR500 plate that spins on every hit, rated up to .30 cal at 100 yards. Instant feedback without a spotting scope.
- Interactive targets. The Texas Star is rated for rifle at 100 yards and up, and the Speed Rack is rated for rifles at a maximum of 3,000 fps and 2,300 ft-lb at the target. Both use SR500, our tougher steel for targets that get shot a lot.
How to set up 5.56 steel
- Measure the distance. Use a rangefinder or measure it out. 100 yards minimum if your load is under 3,000 fps at the muzzle, 200 yards if it's over, and more for very fast varmint rounds.
- Angle the face down. Hang gongs from chains or hangers, or use angled mounts, so fragments head into the ground.
- Pick a safe backstop. A berm or hillside behind your steel catches misses. Keep rocks and hard surfaces out of the impact zone.
- Mind the hardware. Your stand, chain and post aren't the target. Set plates up so a low or wide shot hits dirt, not the frame.
- Paint and inspect. Fresh paint shows your hits from the line. Check every plate before you shoot and retire any that are pitted, cratered or bent. If the same plate also sees pistol, inspect it closely after rifle use before shooting it at 10–15 yards.
- Protect everyone. Eye and ear protection on every person, every string. See our safety information for more.
Common mistakes
- Shooting green tip "just this once." One penetrator round can ruin a plate for good.
- Trusting the 100-yard rule for every load. 100 yards assumes impact under 3,000 fps. Fast 55-grain loads need 200, and very fast varmint rounds need more.
- Using pistol steel for the rifle. 1/4" plates and pistol-only targets aren't built for 5.56 velocities.
- Ignoring your barrel. The box number is a starting point. Know roughly what your rifle actually produces.
- Keeping a cratered plate in service. A damaged face throws fragments unpredictably. Replace it.
What to buy
A rifle line in a box: the Gong Starter Kit (8", 10" and 12" 3/8" AR500 gongs with hangers) covers every distance from 100 yards out. For a bigger warm-up plate and a few small ones, try the Gong Ladder Set (16", 8", 6" and 4"). Need individual sizes? See our 3/8" AR500 Gong Targets.
For realistic drills: the 3/8" AR500 USPSA/IPSC Torso Target, the 3/8" SR500 Triple Threat Torso and the ground-stake Battle Rifle Target, a compact E-type-style silhouette.
For feedback and fun: the Rifle Spinner, the Texas Star and the Speed Rack.
To hang it: T-Post Hangers and our Target Hangers.
Curious why some of our targets are SR500? Read AR500 vs SR500 steel targets, or browse all our steel targets.
FAQ
How far away should I shoot steel with a 5.56?
On 3/8" rifle-rated steel, at least 100 yards if your load leaves the muzzle under 3,000 fps. If your load leaves the muzzle over 3,000 fps — many 55-grain .223/5.56 loads like M193 do — use 200 yards. Very fast varmint rounds (.204 Ruger, .220 Swift, .22-250) need more: back up until the bullet hits under 3,000 fps.
Can I shoot green tip at steel targets?
No. Green tip (M855) has a steel penetrator. Don't shoot it, or any steel-core, armor-piercing, tracer or incendiary round, at any steel target.
Is there a difference between .223 and 5.56 for steel?
For steel, what matters is the load's velocity and bullet construction, not the headstamp. Use the same distance rules for both.
Will 1/4" steel hold up to an AR-15?
We don't recommend it. Use 3/8" steel for centerfire rifle.
What size gong is best for .223 at 100 yards?
A 10" or 12" gong is easy to hit and hear. Smaller 6" and 8" plates add challenge once you're dialed in.
Planning a rifle line and want a second opinion? Contact us and we'll help you pick the right steel and distances.